FATIMA JUNED
DAST-E-POSHIDA or THE INVISIBLE HANDS
Female artisans embroidering the Muqaish craft in their homes
The Invisible Hands is a visual deep dive into the lives of female Muqaish artisans from Lucknow. Muqaish is an embroidery done using flattened gold or silver metallic wires known as ‘taars’. These taars are pierced into the fabric and threaded with a needle to create exquisite designs. The craftwork was introduced during the time of the Nawabs and was primarily done by male artisans in karkhanas (small workplaces). However, male artisans moved out of the craft over time due to the low demand for embroidery and financial instability. This trend drove women to take up embellishment work from home to add to the family’s income, while also preserving the craft’s intergenerational tradition.
An artisan in her centuries-old house embroidering Muqaish work in Old Lucknow
Primarily, the craft is practiced by Muslim women in their homes, some of them being century-old residences. Engagement in the craft comes with the difficulties of non-recognition and invisibility. The artisans continue to manage their households while also doing the Muqaish work to generate an income to support the family’s finances. Even though the income earned through the craftwork is insufficient, many artisans continue to engage in the craft as there is no other option for employment.
A generational craft, an artisans embroidering Muqaish, behind her daughter who also embroiders the craft
The artisans have limited interactions with the outside world. Ironically, many female artisans who have been embellishing Muqaish work all their lives have never worn it themselves. Muqaish is now only done alongside Chikankari, losing its essence as an independent craft. Today, the craft is diminishing; therefore, the current female artisans are hesitant to pass the art to their children. The artisans look for financial stability, healthcare and a better life.
The process of making teeki design (small flattened dots) on a cloth piece
Who do we choose, the art or the artisans?
Can art exist without its artisan?
Can art exist without its artisan?
This exhibit gives an insight into the homes and lives of female artisans, living a life of anonymity in the lanes of old Lucknow. The exhibit also sheds light on the declining craftwork and the artisans’ efforts to keep the craft alive.
Photographs by: Fatima Juned
research first done by SPRF-India
